Expectations were high, especially after the bliss &
beauty of county Donegal. Dingle is often said to be (one of) Ireland’s
prettiest place(s), where the ocean dominates the land and Irish is the lingua
franca. To be honest, it was an enjoyable trip. But we have plenty of proof by
now that the weather is quite the decisive factor in Ireland. In the west, it
rains a lot. As it did last weekend.

The trip was to be car-less. Like the Wexford – New Ross –
Waterford trip. We would take the train to Tralee and from there cycle to
Dingle Town on day one, doing the Slea Head drive on day two, and back to
Tralee and indeed to Dublin on day three. The first challenge already presented
itself when we tried to book train tickets two days in advance. No designated
bike spaces available for the way back. We decided to risk it, bearing in mind
that the backup option –taking the 4:30 am train on Tuesday morning- wasn’t
wholly appealing. Ah well, a bit of uncertainty only adds to the adventure,
doesn’t it?

Overbooked trains weren’t the only challenge to deal with
however, as the humid, sticky weather on Saturday appeared to have quite the
restrictive effect on Bo’s ability to climb mountains on her brand new Giant. And
even though she was grand keeping up on Sunday through the pouring rain, the Connor
Pass on the way back was deemed too much of an obstacle that she opted for the
bus from Dingle back to Tralee. The Lonely Planet, though generally a reliable
guide, wasn’t confidence inspiring as it described the pass as “very narrow and
very steep”. Also the guy working in
the hostel in Dingle wasn’t helping, answering Bo’s concerns about being afraid
of the Connor Pass by stating that the pass “is indeed something to be scared
of”. As the weather had only grown worse this made Monday morning a decent
work-out for me, battering through the rain, ascending the Connor Pass, and
pounding on relentlessly on the descent in an effort to reach Tralee before Bo
did – whose bus had left an hour after my take-off. The quasi-nonchalant text
message I sent upon arrival said it all: “Mooi. Ik ben al in Tralee. Pasje was
prima te doen” (Good, I’m already in Tralee, the pass wasn’t too hard).

Dingle Town itself is quite the treat, with a handful of
cosy pubs and many a restaurant with fresh seafood. One of the most remarkably
moments occurred in Dick Mack, a store-turned-pub, where random people would
start singing every so often, with the entire crowd joining in, returning to
their respective conversations afterwards as if nothing had happened. Touristy
but definitely Irish as well, Dingle Town is!

The loop on Sunday offered some nice but foggy views from
Europe’s westernmost point, where the remnants of some thousands-year old
castles can be found. The audio-video show that we watched at the remnants of
the Dunbeg Promontory Fort

fits
in perfectly with earlier shows at the butter museum in Cork and at the rock of
Cashel in Cashel. Mismatched wooden chairs, a big white wall with a projector
aimed at it, a squeaky sound system, an amateur movie shot in the early nineties,
and a proud hostess guiding us to the “cinema room”. This particular movie was
about a lady, let’s call her Ann, who worked as a archaeologist at the ancient
site. Movie begins. Camera isn’t held steady. Ann is recorded, pretending to be
reading a history book. “This is Ann. She works as an archaeologist at the
Promontory Fort”. Ann looks up at the camera, piercing eyes through her black
rimmed glasses. Just a few seconds too long to make it awkward. Ah well, you
get the picture. As the ruins had been adversely affected by last autumn’s
storms we couldn’t actually visit the fortress itself, “but you can walk down
the path and look at it from afar”. Well, we did walk down the path and gazed
down at some stones that could hardly be discerned as being different from the
dry stone walls covering the grassy hills around us. With some red tape,
indicating we couldn’t go further. Time to get on the bike again!

The views over the Blasket Islands from Slea Head were
inspiring though, in spite of the wind that was increasingly picking up and
preceding the heavy showers that accompanied us over the last quarter of the
journey. That night we enjoyed a well-deserved rich meal at what is arguably
the best fish restaurant in Dingle Town, where only the day’s catch is served
and where chips are banned from the menu. Great value!

So after a weekend of singing songs in the pub, cycling
through wind and rain, lovely fish dishes and the always appreciated daily Guinness,
the challenge was to get back to Dublin, with
our bikes. Well, the first challenge was for Bo to get her bike on the bus
she was taking to Tralee, which the bus company officially doesn’t oblige
itself to if the bus is too full. Well, the bus was quite full. But here I
start recognising a favourable trend among the Irish that I get more and more
appreciative of. Rather than the Dutch, who generally stick to the rules
blindly, I find the Irish bending the rules a bit if they can help out others. This
pragmatic attitude generally gets things done if you try hard enough by just
being kind and assertive. Also here Bo got herself and her bike on the bus,
foregoing the additional charge the bus company usually charges. Back in Tralee
I had arranged for the hostel where we stayed the first night to let me have a
shower there for a fiver, another example of hospitality and pragmatism. And
subsequently, off to the train station. We knew there weren’t any trains that
had two bike spaces left available, but nonetheless we had to try, how else to
get back home? As we assumed the person selling tickets would be a guy, Bo went
up to the counter while I guarded our bikes just around the corner. As Bo took
uncomfortably long I decided to have a look about 10 minutes later, only to
find her looking for later trains on her phone. “She’s very surly. She says
there’s no bike spaces and I have to look for other options” Bo complained.
Wrong strategy. Instead of the jovial old man we had expected behind the
counter, I spotted a stern looking girl, about my age. “Why don’t you look
after the bikes for a while?” Bo nodded. Five minutes later the initially
unyielding girl was heading off towards the platform where the train would
arrive, talked to a few people including the ticket collector, walked back with
resolute, determined steps, took place behind the counter again, and told me it
had been arranged for. Bending the rules a little, but you need to have them on
your side! Our relief for being able to board the first train back –and a direct
train even, what a luxury!- was only slightly diminished by the outrageous
price of €149 for the two of us and our two bikes, coming down at 68 cents per
minute on board. Ah well, it only adds to the story, and you can’t have it all!
Back in Dublin I can conclude that my new Giant has proved
himself a reliable partner, having withstood a few rides through the Wicklow Mountains
and around Dingle peninsula without the slightest hint of discomfort. Dingle is
a lovely little village, and the surrounding country side is gorgeous, but we
have to go back some time, when the sun is
shining!