The above pretty much summarises our experience over the
past four days in county Donegal. Connected to the rest of Ireland by only a
sliver of land, Donegal is often regarded as ‘different’ by most people here in
Dublin. The prevailing comments however suggested that Ireland’s most north-western
county is worth the 3.5 hour drive up, “if you get the weather”. As the forecast
here is as reliable as an alcoholic’s vow to abstain from further drinking, I
decided to ignore the hopeful whispers and ominous muttering alike, and packed
the entire range from rain jacket and scarf to shorts and t-shirts. As we had
the spacious Volkswagen Passat at our disposal, luggage for once wasn’t subject
to the usual impediments of weight and size, and Bo and I both stowed two big
bags each into the car’s trunk. Clothing for four seasons and enough food to
last a week; let’s go!
At the time of writing it’s Monday evening. The weather has
been cooperative to say the least with pretty much uninterrupted sunshine and
more than pleasant temperatures. We have covered 800 km and seen the world. To
be frank I have seen some pretty cool scenery in my life, not in the least the panoramas
from four days of trekking through the Himalayas, Kerala’s jungle, Morocco’s
Atlantic coast, and the holy temple mountain of Hua Shan in China. But what
Donegal has to offer is really quite something spectacular and ranks among the
most impressive sights and scenery I have ever got to enjoy. The interplay
between wild ocean and sheer rock formation, with cliffs soaring up from the
waters, only to give way to the most unperturbed and virgin beaches, and the entire
absence of mass tourism make this place almost magical. Nigh everywhere we
ventured there was the temptation to linger and stay longer, and many new ‘favourites’
were born. In the end it has been a hugely satisfying journey, and if anything,
I know I’ll be back again, to each and every one of the places we have
experienced. Well, enough of the indistinct reminiscence, let’s get down to a
more tangible description in chronological order.
Day 1.
Day 1 was largely spent in the office as really it was just
another day at work, bar me leaving at four in the afternoon and starting the
engine of our fully equipped car at half four. The journey up took about 4
hours, but in the end I savoured my first Guiness of the weekend in one of
Donegal Town’s few bars, listening to some mediocre live music, and I knew the
fun had started. In what has become a cherished tradition by now, we started
our journey with the cheapest half-decent accommodation we could find, only to increase
our standards gradually over the course of the trip. To be honest the bed in
Donegal Town Independent Hostel made for a great night’s sleep and the shower
was warm in the morning. But wait, that’s already day 2.
Day 2.
Day 2 featured an early rise that became the standard
throughout our trip. However much we like sleeping in, there was simply too
much to see and do. Our half an hour hike from the car park to Slieve League
was dominated by roaming sheep and ominous clouds, and the views from “Europe’s
highest sea cliffs” were enjoyable but not altogether much impressive. Maybe it
was the weather that took away a bit of the magic, as we couldn’t even see the
top of the cliffs across the sea inlet, given that these were covered in grey
clouds. Luckily those were the last
clouds to be seen and before Morning had conveyed its responsibilities to Afternoon
we found ourselves in brilliant sunshine hiking up the hills surrounding
Glencolumbcille.
The Lonely Planet was once again of invaluable help by recommending
the Tower Loop, which indeed provided great views over the cliffs and Atlantic
ocean from the top of the bog-covered heights. All this exercise warranted some
food-related reward and not much later we indeed devoured a decent fish chowder in Ardara, a
few kilometres up the coast. The small village signifies the gateway to
Loughrea Peninsula, which ended up being the first place in the county that
truly released our “oooh’s and aahhh’s”. Our stay at Carnaween House was a concoction
of magnificent flavours, scents, sights and sounds. Based at one of Donegal’s
many white beaches, our home for the night was tastefully decorated in a style
that breathed “summer” and “sand” altogether. After half an hour in the lounge
chairs in front of the house, by now under a radiant sun, we couldn’t resist
the temptation any longer and rushed towards the sea. Iniskeel island, which
can be reached on foot when the tide is low, makes for waves coming from two
sides at hide tide, as it splits up the flow of water streaming in from the
ocean. The result is a peculiar interplay between moving water, with waves
crossing each other as they reach the shore, creating an ephemeral chessboard
of blue and white. Iniskeel island isn’t
the only pearl enhancing the view from the beach however, as the horizon is
dotted with tops of mountains making you want to stare in the distance for
hours. With the weather being such an unexpected treat we spent all time left
until dusk at the sea shore, tossing the frisbee and running through the ankle
deep water, feeling more child than ever. In the end our reservation at our
host’s restaurant made us leave the spoils of salt and freedom, only to take
place at the best table with the best view over the bay with the best fish dish
I had had in ages. A late evening stroll with a glass of the Green Spot after
dinner, and off to bed, as really all we wanted to do was to be awake when the
sun shone. Tucking in for the night at eleven pm on a Friday really was an easy
sacrifice given the day-time bounties that lay ahead.
Day 3.
The first half of the next day wasn’t the best part of our
trip, as the “scenic drives”, despite the obvious scenery that comes with them, do take up a lot of time and do not
quite grant the same experience as being outside our moving prison of glass and
steel. Reconfirming that position after an hour of “scenic drive” detour past
holiday-home covered coast line we drove straight on to our next destination and
parked the car early in the afternoon at Corcreggan Mill B&B. Amicably instructed
by our host Brendan we set off towards another winning combination of exercise
and sightseeing. The afternoon’s three hour hike was truly spectacular,
starting off at what has become my new favourite beach (in the world) and
reaching to the top of the cliffs from where the views over the ocean and the
islands off the coast are breath-taking. Rolling waves crash incessantly
against the rock formations that guard Ireland’s main land against the ocean’s perils
and make for a spectacular sight, especially when watched from high above. Unfortunately
the mapped walking loop appears to be closed these days, which forced us to climb over
some fences and dodge a number of sheep to reach the main road again, only to
be confronted with an angry farmer who must be telling about a dozen hikers
each day to stay off his land. Not ideal. That evening we gratefully made use
of the self-catering kitchen in an effort to stave off the mounting costs that
come with enjoying life so thoroughly, especially given the eccentricities that
lay ahead at Loch Eske Castle. My usual
recipe of pasta and pesto made for a tasty evening meal, and after some reading
in the hostel’s cosy common room we opted for another early night’s sleep, as
we hadn’t seen the true treasure of the area yet. Horn Head.
Day 4.
Day 4 was arguably the best day. Relying again on Bo to follow
through on the previous evening’s decision to rise and shine before 8 am we
enjoyed a decent breakfast at the B&B and set off towards Horn Head just when
most people were drowsily making their way downstairs. Even against the
background of all the previous treats of the trip, even when compared with the
most beautiful and impressive gifs of nature I have been given to enjoy in my
life, Horn Head is AMAZING. Bliss. Pure bliss. I tell you, go there, get a day
with a brilliant blue sky, go early in order to have the entire area for
yourself, and soak up the immense feeling of wonder and amazement of how
beautiful this world can be. Imagine yourself on the very top of the highest
cliffs, with the ocean left and right, the thundering sound of crashing waves
below and the quiet of the main land behind you, with the coastline and islands
disappearing in the mist beyond. Seagulls soaring in the depths below, tiny
spiders crawling in the moss just below your face, while you are lying flat on
your belly, peeking over the edge, defying feelings of vertigo and instead
soaking up the adrenaline that is rushing through your body. Need I say more?
A morning that starts so overwhelming must get a decent
follow-up. How often would you soak up the salty water of the Atlantic Ocean as
well as the chlorine of one of the country’s best spas in one day? Not often.
As we hadn’t been properly equipped to pay homage to my new favourite beach
upon discovery the previous day, Bo and I decided to nibble at some of the day’s
available time to get some early spring swimming under our belt. The water was
freezing and the current pulling us away from the beach surprisingly strong,
but the twenty-odd seconds in the water were an experience well worth it. More running
and splashing through shallow waters, wearily observed by hikers in jeans and
sweaters, and back to the car for the afternoon programme, off to Loch Eske.
The last night of our trip was responsible for about half
the entire journey’s expenses. The reason why was well worth it however. As we
were told by Rachel, our chatty and attentive waitress over dinner, Loch Eske
Castle was all ruins from an 18
th century sacking from which the former
times’ stronghold never recovered... until six years ago, when the entire castle
was rebuilt in the old style. When Michael, the butler, opened the oak wooden
doors to our room for the night, there was no need to look at Bo to know that
she was thinking the exact same as I was. I had never stayed in such a luxurious
place before. Apart from the hotel room and all that it entailed (we guestimated
that it was bigger than Bo’s former apartment in The Hague), the castle grounds
boast a luxurious spa and top notch restaurant. Furthermore there are numerous lounge
rooms decorated with oak wood tables, plush chairs, walls covered with shells
full of books, ornate mirrors, soft carpets, huge paintings in gilded frames,
elegant side tables, thick curtains, wooden panels covering the walls, open
fires burning in the hearths… all you need and more to pick up a book and soak
up the atmosphere around you. Breakfast was delicious and filling, dinner even
better with oysters and lamb. The 21 hours we spent on the grounds were the 21
most lavish hours of my life, and are well worth the upcoming week of living off
white rice and uncooked beans to make this month's budget close.
