Exploring Ireland by bike: Wexford, New Ross, and Waterford

Another bank holiday, another excuse to venture off and to explore. Ireland keeps revealing its many treats and this weekend was no exception, rather, it may very well have been the best weekend thus far! Hosting us this time were the counties of Wexford and Waterford; dominions in the south east of the country and a story apart, as we found out over the past days. In stark contrast with the wilderness of Connemara and the mountains in Mayo the southern counties appear more cultivated yet not less impressive in their own way. It’s near 5 o’clock on Monday bank holiday and having just returned back home this is the opportune moment to eternalise this thriving adventure.

From A to B

Public transport in Ireland is reasonably OK but the less commonplace areas are hard to reach, especially on Sundays and public holidays. As I cannot keep inducing my employer into lending me a car for the weekend Bo and I tried a new approach this time; cycling! We took the train down to Wexford Friday night and back up from Waterford this Monday afternoon but all distance in between was covered on two wheels. Ireland is truly best explored by bike; meandering country roads through rolling landscapes where the reward for a climb is never far away. Our biggest fear was a flat tyre or malfunctioning bicycles in general but luckily my bike repair skills were not put to the test, although Mary (Bo’s bike) wasn’t boosting confidence that this journey should have lasted another few days without pushing our luck too far. The only drawback really is that everything you want to take on your journey has to fit in two backpacks, which cannot be too heavy lest the journey becomes a pain rather than a pleasure. But perfectly well we managed packing the mere essentials in our two bags. It’s actually a lovely feeling to be able to take all that you may need with you in two rucksacks; completely free to go wherever you feel like. James and Mary took us from Wexford to New Ross, and from New Ross to Waterford. Avoiding the main roads by all means so as to explore genuine Irish country side we spent on average about half a day on our bikes, covering up to 50 km from B&B to hostel. Climbing gentle slopes and thundering down winding roads I was doing exactly what I wanted to be doing. Spot on.    

The Irish

The Irish are generally regarded as friendly and welcoming people, and surely we would agree, but rarely does one encounter such affable folks as in the southern countryside. Very helpful and welcoming and concerned about another’s wellbeing, hospitable and warm, time after time Bo and I marvelled out loud about the more than pleasant stance of whoever we came across in our roves. When Mary’s gears proved unreliable, producing odd sounds and casting gloomy shadows on the road ahead, a local shopkeeper fixed her all right and could not be seduced into taking some cash in return. The bike salesman in Wexford got us a tool for free with which to take off Mary’s wheels, and when I sat beside the road waiting for Bo to catch up a young lad came up to me asking whether I was all right and if I needed some help with a broken bike. Taking shelter from a brief shower underneath a tree a farmer across the road waves at us, making clear that we could take refuge underneath the slatted roof on his grounds, and we were greeted by every passer-by on the winding country roads. Impressed.

Spending the nights

Worth a section of its own, we semi-deliberately picked our stays in order from ultra budget to very classy, climbing the luxury scale as the bank holiday weekend progressed. Friday night we had the top floor room in an unassuming house in central Wexford; marvellously clean and ultra cheap our bedroom may as well have been a closet with a double bed floating between the tight walls. Neither landlord nor fellow guests were spotted yet the small back yard offered ample space to grant Mary and James a secure spot for the night. Grand! A demanding first day of cycling (for Bo) was richly rewarded when we arrived at about 13:00 at our second stay; a lovely B&B amid large trees, stone staircases, roman-looking fountains, and stretches of green grass. 

Our bed was big and soft, the shower small but luxurious, and the sauna well enjoyed! And yesterday, oh, such bliss, such privilege to be hosted in such venue. Although a night at the Coach House cost us well more than the previous two combined it was well worth it. Amid the ruins of a centuries-old castle and its surrounding building the coach house is the only unit well preserved and still is use, and in the style and grandeur of yore times guests get a truly miraculous reception. Canopied beds, soft leather armchairs, classic music playing in the background, and Bo’s best idea of the past three months to buy the financial times weekend edition to enjoy it all to the max upon our return from the city at eight pm. Lovely, to say the least.

Rain rain rain

Or well, that was the forecast. We all know by now that the Irish, or anyone for that matter, cannot forecast the weather here. Apparently it’s too difficult. Bar a few light showers that could easily be shielded from underneath any tree over 5 years old we had brilliant sunlight most of the time. Really? Really. To be honest, the county of Wexford did see its thundering showers of rain, big downpours that transformed roads into rivers and courtyards into swimming pools, but those took place when we were soaking in other liquids in our B&B sauna. What would be more welcoming than a good shower straight from heaven when you are in dire need for some cooling down after 15 minutes of 80 degrees Celsius? Yes indeed, rain as a blessing from the skies. And I could not have imagined a better lullaby when falling asleep two hours later, only to wake up the next morning underneath a brilliant blue sky. The ‘dry warm south’ truly lived up to its name!

Other awesome stuff

Truly impressive was the ‘famine ship’ replica in New Ross, which tells the story of the mass emigration away from Ireland and into the New World; poor farmers escaping the potato famines at home trying their luck someplace else. Boats stuffed with hundreds of people took a good two months to sail to the US of A, with all possible outbreaks of diseases, misery, and trouble on board. The guided tours on the replica boat, incl of actors and genuine objects from 150 years ago made a tale come to life. If I were to make a top 5 of must-sees in Ireland, the famine ship in New Ross would be in it. Definitely.

Another gateway to the past are the countless museums in Waterford. Being Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford makes the most of their heritage and have restored a number of impressive medieval buildings to their former grandeur, now featuring museums that guide their visitors through the city’s 1000 year history. The LP’s top choice, Reginald Tower, certainly did so, and our guided tour polished our much desired historical knowledge of Ireland.

Back home

And quite the marvellous weekend to look back on! The concept of exploring the country by bike is a definite winner, and one to pursue more often in the future. Soon more to follow, more and better!

And a quote to finish it all:

(book store)
Tony: "You wouldn't have the Economist here right?"
Girl: "Is it a book or a magazine?"
Tony: "A magazine."
Girl: "What is it about?"
Tony: "Economics."